Friday, July 29, 2011

Cat quilt

I like to use the whole 5 minutes of spare time that I have to craft, and in particular, to sew. The problem being that the cats also enjoy it when I sew, because it means they get comfy beds with all my fabrics. Even the ones that are going through the sewing machine. You'd think that slowly drifting closer and closer to the needle would maybe encourage them to move out of the way, but no. I honestly think they know that I'd never sew them, and they use it against me. So hard to craft with so many kitties!!!!


Here four of the furry freaks band together to prevent me from finishing a new quilt (please also note how Zadie is the one telling me "hell no, this is mine"... so typical of her!!):

Splinter

Splinter has become quite the little snuggler. He's also got a very hefty meow for something so tiny... I guess when he wants attention he really wants it!!!

He's a bit hard to see in the pictures since he's all black (with a few bald spots left from his time in the sewer), but take my word for it... this is one cute kitty!!!! I'll be accepting adoption applications for this little guy after his neuter next week!

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

The Trickster

This little kitty is too smart for its own good. I've sterilized the rest of its family, but this one always seems to know exactly what I'm up to and has managed to evade my traps for weeks! Little does it know that I've officially accepted its challenge, and will never give up trying to trap it for sterilization. Sometimes I wish I could explain to them that it really is better for them health-wise, but they never listen.

And they just keep coming...

Apparently when mama cat brought her two little ladies to my friends house, she forgot to bring her little boy. Last night he showed up ready to chow down though, and next week we'll be taking him in for his neuter and vaccinations. He's a cutie, and will only get better looking after he's sterilized!!

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Lemur's New Home

Lemur has officially settled into her new home!!
To learn more about her new adventures visit Directions Not Included :)

Here we go again...

I never thought I'd say it, but I really hate the sight of kittens. Nothing against them personally, but every kitten I see reminds me that if the mother had been sterilized we wouldn't have to deal with another unwanted litter. And yes, at this point they're all unwanted (we have thousands upon thousands of feral cats and kittens in Miami!!).

When I was leaving my house last night to feed the colony cats at UM, I saw three little bodies in the bushes across the street. And I know exactly which cat is the mother, and why we're now in this situation. It's been a constant battle with my neighbor to get the cats around his house all sterilized, and the mother of this new litter is the one that he kept releasing from my traps because it was "his indoor pet". Yep, despite being outside 75% of the time he still claimed it was an indoor pet. But I'm not going to get into all that because it makes me too angry... right now it's all about finding a solution.
Anna and I schemed last night about how we're going to get all these furry babies and the mama sterilized and vaccinated without him knowing about it, and I think we've come up with a crazy plan that just might be crazy enough to work. We're going to dress like cat burglars (get it?! yeah, I'm a dork...) and sneak over there in the middle of the night (around 1am) and set out my drop trap (because it's quieter). I know exactly where the kittens are nesting, and feel that the power of tuna will compel them to walk under the trap. Then with a quick pull of the string, and some silent moving of the family to carriers, we'll be off with our kitty prisoners (although when I say prisoners I mean that in the most spoiled, cared for way possible...). The cats may all need to recover elsewhere since I'm sure once my neighbor catches on he won't be too pleased, but that's a risk I'm willing to take. This is all on him. If you're not part of the solution then you're part of the problem, and this guy is a major problem.

The kittens are still too small to be sterilized, so we may need to wait another 2 weeks or so before we can put this plan into action. But I think that just gives us more time to perfect our plan of attack, and learn my neighbors night time schedule. Maybe I'll watch a little more ManTracker too to improve my hunting skills:)

UPDATE:
I was being too conservative when I said there were only three kittens... I guess it was wishful thinking. This afternoon I counted five. Our mission just got a little harder, and all the more necessary! While the current plan is to return them to the outdoors, if anyone out there is willing to take these little babies in I'd be more than happy to help socialize them after their sterilization/vaccinations.

Monday, July 25, 2011

I'm a Robot 01100011110


I've been doing some data entry for The Cat Network, mostly to help track the cats that go through the adoption program for grant records, and let me just say that it makes me feel a bit like a robot. It's not at all hard, but it is time consuming (there are a lot of cats up for adoption!!), and the whole thing makes my eyes cross after about an hour or so. I'm about half way through the stack that needs to be entered, with more on the way as soon as we close out July. And don't get me wrong, I'm happy to do it... I just wish I could get a sticker each time I finish entering a page:) Whatever happened to being rewarded with stickers??!! We need to bring that back...!!

Another Spay Day down...

The three new cats went in for their spay on Thursday (they all turned out to be females, so hooray for getting them sterilized before they start reproducing!!), along with the mother of one of the Music School litters on campus. The Meow Mobile was also having a bit of a rush that morning (too many cats, not enough staff), so I volunteered to stay and help. And I'm glad I did. I'm now on volunteer rotation for the clinic, and get to help with all the sterilizations... something I didn't think I'd be able to do but am so happy to find that I can actually be more hands on!! I went back to volunteer at the Miami Beach event on Sunday, and was taught how to prep the cats (vaccinating, shaving, sterilizing the surgery area, etc) and how the Meow Mobile runs in general. We ended up sterilizing 50 cats that day, which is 50 more that won't be having babies!! I also want to say for the record, that as someone who is insanely scared of needles and shots I found that I have no problem at all giving shots to cats. I guess it has to do with the human skin more than anything else, because I normally faint when I see a needle and have to get shots. Administering vaccinations and medications to cats however, is easy breezy (although it may also be that for them it's a good thing... shots for me I'm still not convinced about;)!!).

And now to find more dates in which I can volunteer my time, and more ways in which I can help in general. It's nice to be a part of the solution:)


Music School Mama:

Skinny Kitty Mama:
Kitten #1:
Kitten #2:

PS. The cats are all doing quite well. Music School Mama is back on campus and has returned to her colony friends. The other mama and her kittens have completely settled into their new home, and love playing with their new little boy:)

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

New friends

There's just no doubting it... cats are smart.

This mama cat (furthest to the left) showed up at a friends house on Sunday, crying at the back door for food. She's very clearly underweight, and has been for some time, so a can of tuna was put out on the porch for her. The big surprise was when she returned last night with her two kittens in tow. That's a cat that knows good people if I've ever seen one!!!

They're all very skinny, and beyond starved, but they're now on the fast track to recovery! They're also so hungry that the feral was just starved out of them, because they'll let you go and pet them (and even briefly pick them up) as long as you've got food in your hands. Tonight they'll be put in carriers and taken to the Meow Mobile for sterilization and vaccines tomorrow morning. And after that they will call this house their home... thank god for good people out there who do the right thing instead of turning a blind eye!! These little furry friends will make fantastic outdoor pets, and are already so grateful for the help! The human family living at the house also have a young kid, who is more than happy about his new pets:) And once they are cleaned up and fattened up, I'm positive they'll be happy to play with him and snuggle up for pets and purrs!!!

The two kittens look to be about 14-16 weeks old, and we believe (from the brief picking up to inspect) that they are both males. Mama herself can't be much more than a year old. All three are very pretty cats, and will be very friendly strays.


UPDATE:
Turns out both the kittens are female and around 12 weeks old. Mama is about a year old, possibly even as young as 10 months. This is why it's so important to spay and neuter... cats can start reproducing as young as 4 months old, and can have up to 4 litters a year. It's a far cry easier to sterilize from the start than it is to try and play catch up after a litter has already been born (and already having their own litters, and so on and so forth)...!!!

Monday, July 18, 2011

Another one?

When feeding the campus cats this evening I spied another little kitty, which I suspect may be the fourth kitten that evaded my capture last month.
I also think it might be a lady, so we're stepping up the trapping efforts as soon as all this rain subsides. The downfall of Miami summers!!

Bye bye balls

This is why you should spay and neuter your pets... They love you more afterward!!!
James went in for his sterilization this morning, and has been a cuddle bug ever since. Too bad I can only neuter him once... I'm really loving all this love!!!

Saturday, July 16, 2011

Saving Splinter.....

What happens when a tiny kitten falls in a storm drain? A massive rescue operation!!!

On Tuesday I received a call informing me that a kitten had fallen into a storm drain on a busy street near campus, and the fire department was working on getting it out. Wednesday morning however, came with the news that the kitten was still trapped. Fast forward over a few frantic calls to the fire department, police department and a very caring plumbing company, and we had a massive 3 hour rescue attempt on our hands.

It turns out that the kitten had gotten spooked by the rescue attempt on Tuesday, and crawled further into the storm drain, where he then managed to fall 8 feet into the sewer pipes and could no longer get out on his own. The fire chief opened up the storm drain and sewer covers, and the plumbing company went to work devising a handful of "solutions" for getting the kitten that was 24 feet away, and sitting on top 4 feet of sewer sludge (which I learned acts like quicksand...).

In the end it took a very brave and compassionate plumber willing to crawl over cut plywood that was thrown down in the sewer to reach the kitten and pull him out. He was severely dehydrated, massively underweight, and covered in nastiness. I rushed him home, bathed him, and forced food and high calorie supplements into him (he wasn't eating on his own at this point). From there I braced myself for losing the kitten during the night.

Much to my astonishment, by about 3am the kitten was willingly eating, purring up a storm, and even starting to play. Since then he's progressed to eating wet food on his own, running around chasing mice and generally being a very cute, active kitten!! He's about 6 weeks old and still a bit tiny for his age, but he's definitely a fighter and coupled with the antibiotics he's on he should be strong enough for adoption within the coming weeks. Talk about a rags to riches story!!!

Adam also named him Splinter, since he came out of the sewer looking like a drowned rat (it kind of just screamed Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles...).


Here are the rescue workers descending into the sewer to save Splinter:


Trying to use a long pole and net to scoop him up:


Spliter all cleaned up (although still missing a lot of hair...):


Hungry boy:


Scruggly, but still cute:

This is one kitten that definitely knows its life was saved by the people... I've never seen a feral kitten become so tame so fast!!! He's 100% lover now!

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

ID Tags

Everyone should have an ID tag for their pet!

So many pets are lost each year and the majority of them do not return home. For such a small amount there really is no good excuse to not get one, especially when you consider the amount of heartbreak losing your pet would cause!!

That being said, I just ordered new ID tags for my furry friends (along with breakaway collars). I stumbled upon this site, which charges a measly $2.39 per tag, with free shipping, so I thought I would share it: http://www.pettags4less.com/

I'll also be taking the kitties in this summer for microchips, but that will be done gradually in small groups (I can't imagine lugging 8 cats in for microchips at one time!!).

UPDATE: I just took 4 of the 8 kitties to Animal Services for their microchips this afternoon. The other 4 will go on Saturday, then I'll be sending in all their registration forms so the bionic kitties will be forever on record as mine:)

Rescuers Need Rescue Too

I'm reposting this from Shadow Cats Rescue, because it's important for us to remember sometimes!!


Posted By Shadow Cats Rescue on Sunday, July 10, 2011 at 6:06pm

RESCUERS NEED RESCUE, TOO

Animal rescue is deeply rewarding yet extremely difficult work. To survive in this realm, one must find healthy ways to cope with the emotional challenges. Here are 10 points to ponder:

1. You can’t save them all. Even if you spent every hour of every day working to save animals, you still wouldn’t be able to save them all. Take comfort in knowing that you are not alone in your efforts.

2. Work smarter, not harder. Manage your rescue efforts like a business. Organize tasks to make the best of your time. For example, time spent recruiting more volunteers may make more sense in the long run than trying to do more yourself. If you find yourself pulled in many directions, you might be more effective if you focus on one rescue facility, one geographic locale, or one species or breed.

3. Just say “no.” Many people feel guilty when they can’t take care of everything that comes up. Be realistic about how much you can handle! If you’re feeling overwhelmed, it’s okay to say, “I can’t right now.” Delegate to others when possible and ask for help when you need it.

4. You are making a difference. Whenever you question whether you’re helping very much, remember [Dr. Loren Eiseley's] the old parable about the man walking on the beach, picking up starfish who had washed ashore and tossing them gently, one by one, back into the ocean. Another man approaches, notices that there are starfish on the beach as far as the eye can see and asks, “What difference can you possibly make when there are so many?” Looking at the creature in his hand, the first man replies, “I can make all the difference in the world to THIS starfish.”

5. Celebrate victories. There are happy endings to many rescue stories. Rejoice in what is working. Of course, seeing an animal go home with a loving family is the greatest reward of all.

6. Small kindnesses do count. It’s common to think that small efforts don’t mean as much as large victories, but stopping to pet an animal, even for just one minute is worth doing. Your touch may be the only friendly attention he or she receives that day. Grooming, holding and comforting, or intoning softly that you care, are activities that many shelters don’t have time for.

7. Find outlets for emotional release. Rescue work can be physically exhausting, emotionally draining, and spiritually challenging. Don’t dismiss your feelings or think you’re a wimp for being affected by it all. Talk to someone you trust about what you’re experiencing. Cry when you need to. Write your feelings in a journal. Channel your emotions into action by writing to the editor of your newspaper or your local representative about the need for animal protection legislation.

8. Take care of yourself. Make time to do whatever makes you feel good. Take a relaxing bath or go out to dinner and let someone else do the cooking. You need to recharge your batteries in order to maintain mental and physical health.

9. Don’t downplay your compassion. When people ask me why I rescue animals, often I’m tempted to say, “Oh, it’s not a big deal” or “Somebody’s got to do it,” when in reality I rescue animals because I care so deeply about them. Compassion is healthy, normal and necessary for this work. Let people know how important this cause is to you. You just might inspire others to become involved.

10. Never give up. When you get discouraged, it is tempting to throw in the towel. Despite all your hard work, you may not see real change in your lifetime. Still, giving up won’t make it any better. Take a break, and come back fighting. And remember the man and the starfish.

by Chandra Moira Beal

Monday, July 11, 2011

A New Home?

Lemur is currently in the midst of a "trial basis" at her potential new home... depending on how well the current residents get along with her (three dogs and a cat- the humans already like her and know her well).

Anna and Ray decided last week to try her out because she really is such an amazing kitty, and we want to keep her in the family!! So far the few times she's gone over to the house things went well... the pups are all curious about her (in a good way), and Dylan seems to have found his new best friend. Annie isn't in love yet, but I'm positive she'll warm up to Lemur once she gets to know her. But at least Annie hasn't chased her or anything too crazy... just a couple hisses to make herself known, which is to be expected.

And Lemur seems to be adjusting well... she has no problem with the dogs (and will even sit through some slobbery licks), and is happy to just chill on top of the desk. She purrs up a storm as soon as she gets there, and hasn't really acted frightened (except for a brief moment when she was on the floor with the dogs and didn't understand the barking - which wasn't at her by the way). Hopefully we'll move to phase 2 soon (a sleepover), and then she can start taking her place in the crazy clan!! It will be awesome to have my little love living at my bff's house, because then I'll be able to visit her all the time to get my kisses and snuggles!!!:)


Lemur in her spot on the desk, ignoring Dylan and Maggie.


Lilly inspects Lemur... and doesn't seem to have any complaints:


UPDATE:

Lemur has completely adjusted in her new home, and the dogs and Annie Cat have adjusted as well. While Annie still isn't too sure about this new fuzz ball, she isn't hiding from her, which is great. The dogs also love Lemur (and her kitty toys), and Lemur couldn't care less about the dogs. She even stole a bone at one point... brave little kitty!!

It's such a great feeling to see a happy ending like this... especially for such an amazing cat like Lemur. I miss her more than anything, but I know she's in the best home I could have asked for (topped off by the fact that I get to regularly visit her for kisses and snuggles).

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Rescuing Kittens

A very good friend of mine, Aubree, had an interesting situation last night that prompted me to write a post about it... her neighbor found three feral kittens in the bushes outside her door, and didn't know what to do about them. Surprisingly, most people don't.

First order of business is to leave them alone and see if the mother returns. If you touch them or hang around the nest area too much the mother may get scared off and then you have a bigger problem on your hands. I know they're cute, but at such a young age they really are quite fragile. One thing to keep in mind to hopefully help deter you from bothering them right off the bat is that even though the feral kitten mortality rate is pretty high at 50%, the mortality rate of bottle fed rescue kittens is even higher. It's a very thin line between too much and too little, and only mama cat knows the exact measurements of everything the kitten needs.

That being said, there are definitely situations that call for human interference. Like, for instance, if they've been abandoned. Determining that can be difficult though, and so I decided to post some guidelines for dealing with feral kittens, from Alley Cat Allies (amazing organization... I highly recommend them if you're dealing with feral cats!!!). The article is long, but it will help guide you through every step of the process.

I also want to say for the record that after determining the course of action that should be taken in dealing with the kittens, the next major step is trapping that mama and getting her spayed!!! It's the only way to end these kinds of situations, and by the time those kittens are 10 weeks old she can be pregnant with another litter!!! The kittens should also be sterilized when they reach the 8 week mark (or, if they're being brought inside, 12 weeks old).
_________________________________________________________________

When you come across outdoor kittens, you may feel the need to immediately pick them up and bring them home with you, but that might not be the best thing for the kittens–or for you. Here are some guidelines on how to decide if kittens in a colony should be removed and socialized for adoption, and how to care for them should you choose to remove them and raise or socialize them yourself. You can find more in-depth information by ordering kitten care products from our online marketplace. These guidelines are just that, and they should not be used as a substitute for veterinary care.

In addition to the information below, consider looking into Feral Friends in your area. These are local individuals, organizations, and veterinarians or clinics that may be able to help with hands-on advice, information about borrowing equipment, and veterinarians or clinics that can spay and neuter feral cats. Request a list of Feral Friends in your area.

1. First Steps When You Find Kittens Outdoors

You’ve got a decision to make. Your first instinct when you see kittens may be to swoop them up and take them home with you, but that is not always in the best interest of the kittens—or you. Socializing and caring for feral kittens is a time-consuming process which requires devotion, patience, and attention. The decision to bring feral kittens into your home should not be taken lightly.

Some kittens may need intervention if they are not doing well. Remember that early weaning of kittens who seem to be doing well may lead to increased mortality or failure to thrive. Although kittens begin weaning prior to eight weeks of age, they should remain with their mother until then to learn proper behavior and socialization.

Ultimately, you have to use your own judgment depending on the kitten’s circumstances and your time and resources. The best way to help all of the cats in the colony is to perform Trap-Neuter-Return and not spend all your time socializing kittens. Read our How to Conduct Trap-Neuter-Return guide for help.

Before you move forward, consider:

  1. Time: Do you have the time it takes to socialize kittens? You will have to commit to caring for them one-on-one for at least a couple of hours each day, for a period of a few weeks to a month or longer. If the kittens are neonatal, they will require even more specialized care, including round-the clock bottle-feeding. Make sure you know ahead of time what this entails. Sadly, people often bring feral kittens into their home and then do not take the time to work with them. Weeks, or months, later, they realize that they cannot touch the cat—they have feral cats in their home that cannot be adopted.
  2. Adoption Expertise and Connections: After socializing the kittens, they will need adoptive homes. Do you have the network—friends, acquaintances, organizations—to help you find those homes? Finding and screening homes for kittens takes work. Consider the paperwork required—adoption fees, forms, and contracts—as well as your ability to get the kittens neutered before adoption when deciding whether to socialize them or not.
    (*Note: Alley Cat Allies recommends early-age spay/neuter. A kitten can be neutered as long as it weighs two pounds. Learn more.)
  3. Kitten Age: Healthy kittens four months of age or older can stay in their colony. These kittens should be neutered, vaccinated, and returned to their outdoor home.
    • How to Determine Kitten Age
      See photos of kitten progression from day 1 to ten weeks old.
      - Under one week: (3-8 oz) Eyes are shut, ears are folded down, and kittens are unable to walk. They can purr and make tiny noises. The umbilical cord may still be visible.
      - One-two weeks: (8-11 oz) Eyes start to open (they are blue) and focus. Ears begin to open and movement is improved to crawling, snuggling, and kneading.
      - Three weeks: (7.5-14.5 oz) Eyes fully open and ears are open and standing up. The kitten will start to respond to noises and movement. The first wobbly steps are taken and baby teeth start to come in.
      - Four-five weeks: (8-16.75 oz) Running, playing, digging, and pouncing occur often. Kittens will start to wean and will be able to lap up formula, eat soft food, and use the litter box by themselves. Eyes have fully changed from blue to their adult color.
      - Eight weeks: (2 lbs) Kittens look like little versions of full grown cats. This is the best age at which to begin the socialization process.

Next Step: Kitten and Mom Scenarios and How to Trap


2. Kitten and Mom Scenarios and How to Trap

As national Trap-Neuter-Return experts with more than 20 years of experience, we often receive calls from caregivers wondering how to trap a mother cat and her kittens and what to do with them once they’ve been trapped.

In order to do what’s best for kittens, you MUST know how old they are. Throughout this guide, refer to our kitten progression photos for help determining kittens’ age. Here are a few guidelines to remember:
  • The best place for kittens younger than eight weeks old is with their mother, if at all possible.
  • The ideal window for socializing kittens is about 12 weeks or younger. Older kittens can be trapped, neutered, and returned.

Here are some common scenarios you might encounter and how to deal with them:

  • If you find kittens who are alone, determine if the mother has abandoned them or if she is just off looking for food. The only way to find this out is to wait. Often times, she will return within a few hours. Observe from a distance or a hidden spot to be sure she is not returning before moving the kittens. Use common sense and be patient.

  • If the mother cat doesn’t come back after several hours, and you think she has abandoned the kittens or they are in danger, you can choose to raise them yourself. Do not take this decision lightly. You will need to determine if the kittens require neonatal kitten care (one- to three-weeks-old), if the kittens are young enough to be socialized, fostered or adopted (eight- to 12-weeks-old), or if they are at the age to be trapped, neutered, and returned.

  • If the mother cat does return for her kittens, you have multiple options to consider:
    • If the mother is feral and the kittens are too young to be separated from her, the best thing for the family is to leave them where they are for now as long as the location is safe. (Use your judgment and common sense—if you think the location is safe enough for the mother to survive, leave the kittens with her; if not, see next bullet point.) Remember, the mother is best able to care for her kittens. Provide food, water, and shelter. Monitor the family daily and make the environment as safe for them as you can. When the kittens are eight-weeks-old or two pounds, you can trap and neuter the whole family as directed below; return the mother to her outdoor home—her colony; and either socialize and adopt out the kittens, or return them to the colony.

    • If the kittens are younger than eight weeks, and you believe it is safer for the whole family to come indoors—you can trap the mom, trap or scoop up the kittens depending on their age, and bring the whole family inside to a quiet, small room like a bathroom, where they can live until the kittens are weaned and it is safe to get them all neutered. Learn more about how to care for an outdoor cat family indoors in the sidebar at left. From there you can decide what is best for the kittens and either return mom outside if she is feral or find her an adoptive home if she is fully socialized. Learn how to tell the difference between socialized (stray) cats and feral cats.

  • If you trap a cat and discover at the clinic that she is a nursing mother, get her spayed immediately and return her to the area where you trapped her as soon as she is clear-eyed that evening, with approval from the veterinarian. Many times, you only learn this after she is at the clinic—make sure the clinic knows your plans for returning nursing mothers as soon as possible; they may have an anesthesia protocol that will enable her to wake up from surgery more quickly. It may seem counterintuitive to separate her from her kittens, but it’s difficult to trap her again—this may be your only real chance to spay her and prevent further litters. Try to find the kittens (following the mother after you return her) so that you can trap and neuter them when they are old enough. Note: In adverse conditions like cold weather when the kittens need their mother to keep warm, it is best to release her after she is fully awake from surgery/anesthesia.

  • If you discover at the clinic that you have brought in a pregnant cat, have her spayed by an experienced veterinarian who has performed this surgery before. It may be necessary to allow an extra day for recovery and extended observation. For many people, this is a difficult aspect of Trap-Neuter-Return, but as with nursing mothers or any cat in a trap, it is unlikely you will ever be able to trap her again—this is your only opportunity to protect her from the health risks and ongoing stresses of mating and pregnancy.

Once you have a plan and understand the different scenarios you may encounter, you are ready to start trapping.

How to Use Kittens to Trap a Mother Cat, and Vice Versa

For general information on how to trap cats, see our How to Conduct Trap-Neuter-Return Guide. Use this baseline information to inform the more complex process of trapping a mom and kittens.

On your first attempt at trapping a cat family, always set out at least one baited trap for every cat and kitten in the family (see our kitten safety tips below). Note: These instructions are for moms with kittens who are old enough to walk. Younger kittens can be scooped up and used to attract mom, but not vice versa.

If you don’t trap mom in the first round, she will soon hear, see, and smell her kittens in the trap and want to get close to them, providing the perfect incentive for her to enter a trap herself.

  1. Once you have a kitten trapped, immediately set up a second trap of similar size end-to-end against the one holding the kitten, so that mom will have to walk into the open trap to reach her baby. Do not open the trap holding the kitten.) (The short ends of the traps should be touching and the two traps together should form a long rectangle. See photo.)

  2. To make sure mom goes inside the trap and not around the back or sides, cover the trap holding the kitten on three sides so that the kitten is only visible from the entrance of the open trap. Cover the area where the traps meet, so mom can’t see the partition as easily. To her, it will appear as though the kitten is inside a tunnel.

If you trap the mother cat first, or if you are trapping other cats and you trap her by accident, keep her in the trap and set a second trap, following the same instructions outlined above with the traps used end-to-end, with one important addition: once you have trapped one kitten, you will have to set up a new trap for the next kitten. Kittens can also be used to trap their siblings in a similar fashion.

Trapping Tips: Kitten Safety

  • When trapping kittens, make sure you are using an appropriately sized trap, like a Tru-Catch 24 or Tomahawk 104 trap, or any trap made specifically for kittens. Larger traps, like those used for raccoons or tomcats, are too powerful for kittens, can put them at risk, and kittens sometimes are not heavy enough to trip the plate.

  • We suggest that you prop open the trap door with a water bottle or other similarly sized object (like a stick) on a string, so you can spring the trap manually when all kittens are safely clear of the door. Once the kitten is fully inside the trap and clear of the door, pull the string hard and fast to remove the water bottle.

  • Make sure to set out at least one trap per kitten, to discourage kittens from following each other into the same trap. (They may still do this, but springing the trap manually will make sure no one gets caught in the trap door.) If you do catch two kittens in one trap either, use an isolator to transfer one into another trap, or bring an extra trap to the clinic, and they clinic will separate the cats after surgery.

As cat experts, we understand your reservations about interfering with nursing mothers and their kittens, but the best thing you can do for the whole family in every situation is to trap and neuter them as soon as it is safe to do so. Where you place the cats after trapping—either in adoptive homes or back with their colony—depends on many factors, including your own time and resources. No two situations are exactly alike, so be prepared to use your judgment.

Next Step: How to Care for Neonatal Kittens

3. How to Care for Neonatal Kittens

Here are some important tips to keep in mind if you do end up having to care for a neonatal kitten (one to three weeks old). Be aware that sometimes, no matter what you do, some neonatal kittens do not survive and can fade very fast. You can only try to be the best surrogate guardian possible, and hope for the best.

  • Ask for Help: Contact local veterinary clinics and no-kill shelters to ask if they have a nursing mother cat or experienced volunteers available to bottle-feed the kittens. People have had a lot of success having mother cats “adopt” more kittens.

  • Heat and Bedding: Kittens can easily become chilled and can actually die from chilling within a short timeframe. Be sure that from the moment you find them, the kittens are kept constantly warm. Continually keep an eye out for signs of chilling (i.e., kittens are listless and feel cool to the touch). If you have nothing else on hand, use your own body heat to warm up a cold kitten, and rub gently to aide circulation. It is important to note that kittens cannot control their own body temperature until they are at least three-weeks-old. Do not bottle feed until kittens have warmed up completely.

    At home, provide kittens with a soft nest (like a box or kitty bed) with a heating pad or other warming device. Completely cover it with a blanket or towel, and make sure that kittens can move away from the heat if they want. Change the bedding daily or as needed when accidents occur.

    Chilling can occur after a kitten becomes wet. Never submerge kittens in water. If you need to wash them, wash only certain parts or use a moist wash cloth. Be sure to always fully dry them with a hair dryer (on low) and towel.

  • Food: Never feed kittens cow’s milk—this causes diarrhea. Feed only kitten formula, such as KMR, which can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Use kitten bottles to feed, as they are designed specifically with a kitten in mind. If you have an option for nipples, the elongated nipples are easier to use. Follow the directions of the bottle manufacturer for bottle preparation. You may have to make your own holes in the nipple with a sterilized pin or razor; be sure you do this correctly so that the kitten replacement milk drips out slowly when the bottle is turned upside down. Sterilize the bottles before using. Wash your hands before and after each feeding.

    If you find yourself with a kitten and no store is open, this emergency kitten formula can be made at home. It should only be used in emergencies, and should not replace kitten formula.
    8 oz. can evaporated milk
    1 beaten egg yolk
    2 TB Karo syrup
    Mix all ingredients well and strain. Warm before serving. Keep refrigerated.
    From Feline Neonatal Care dvd from the Loudoun SPCA. Available through our marketplace.

  • Feeding: Hold or place kittens on their stomachs and arch the bottle so less air gets in (do not feed kittens on their backs). Always warm the kitten replacement milk and test it on your wrist to be sure it is warm but not hot. Remember, do not feed chilled kittens.

    Feeding should occur every two hours around the clock for kittens one week or younger. You can reduce feeding to every three to four hours at two weeks and from then on, most kittens can be fed about two to three times daily with a wet food/formula mixture. Follow the guidelines on the formula label for how much to feed. Kittens will usually stop nursing when full.

    If you are having trouble getting a kitten to “latch” onto the bottle, try pulling on the nipple when they start to suck, this will encourage her to suck harder and latch on. You can also try moving the nipple back and forth in the kitten’s mouth.

    If your kitten is too ill to suck on a bottle, you may have to use other methods such as tube feeding. Consult a veterinarian before attempting this yourself.

    Weaning occurs around four to five weeks of age. Mix formula with wet food so kittens can begin to lap it up, or put the mixture in a bottle. Then mix with dry food and begin providing water.

  • After feeding: As long as kittens are eating formula, you must burp them. Put them on your shoulder or on their stomachs and pat them gently until you feel them burp. Kitten formula is sticky, so be sure to clean kittens after feeding with a warm, damp washcloth.

  • Elimination: Kittens under four weeks must be stimulated in order to go to the bathroom after each feeding. Usually a mother cat would lick her kittens, but you can use a warm, moist cotton ball to gently rub the kittens’ anal area to stimulate urination and defecation. Completely solid feces usually will not form while kittens are drinking formula. Start litter training at four weeks. Use a small litter box with non-clumping litter. Show kittens the litter box and put in a used cotton ball, and this should do the trick.

  • Health Concerns:
    Upper Respiratory Infection (URI) – Though this is common in kittens, you should not ignore it. If heavy yellow discharge develops or the kitten has trouble breathing or eating, see a veterinarian immediately. A mild URI can be cleared up by simply wiping away discharge with a warm, wet cloth and keeping kittens in a warm, damp environment.

    Fleas – Fleas on a very small kitten can cause anemia. First, pick fleas off with a flea comb. For a bad infestation, you can bathe the kitten in warm water to get rid of fleas, since using topical flea treatment can make small kittens ill. Remember, never submerge kittens fully in water. If giving a bath be careful of chilling – dry kittens thoroughly with a warm towel or hair dryer on low, then place on a heating pad. No shampoos or topical treatment should be used in kittens six weeks or younger.

    Parasites/Diarrhea – Any drastic change in stool consistency can mean trouble. Parasites can often cause diarrhea, strange looking stool, and dehydration. If you notice any unusual signs, your kittens should be seen by a veterinarian.

Next Step: Socializing Feral Kittens

4. Socializing Feral Kittens

Feral cats are not socialized to people—and can’t be adopted. With some time and attention, however, you can work with young feral kittens to help them become affectionate and loving companions. It’s not a transformation that happens overnight—socializing kittens is a big commitment—but it’s a very rewarding experience.

Kittens who do not have any contact with humans after they are born will be feral, regardless of whether their mother is a lost house cat or a feral cat living in a colony. They will be frightened of people and demonstrate all of the signs of fear and anxiety that an adult cat would, like spitting, hissing, and running from human contact.

To become pets, they will need to be socialized, or taught to be comfortable around people. If the kittens are eight weeks or younger, usually just about anyone can socialize them by following some simple steps. Kittens older than two months (eight weeks) of age often take more time and skill to socialize. Learn how to determine kitten age.

*Note: Alley Cat Allies does not recommend attempting to socialize adult feral cats or kittens older than four months of age. Learn more.

Do’s and Don’ts of Kitten Socialization

Veterinary Care

  • Have a well-kitten visit at the veterinarian; make sure kittens are FVRCP vaccinated and dewormed if necessary. (*Note: Rabies vaccination can’t be given until they are four-months-old.)
  • Get immediate veterinary attention if the kittens become lethargic, stop eating, or have diarrhea.

Kitten Age

Confinement

  • Keep kittens in a room that can be closed off, like a bathroom or spare bedroom. Set up a cage for them inside the room. This will give you easy access and won’t give them an opportunity to hide in a hard-to-reach spot. This small space will also calm them and allow them to easily find their food, water, and litter, while keeping any pets or small children away.
  • Provide a safe zone—or ‘den’ (such as a small box with blankets or a feral cat den)—in the kittens’ cage. This hiding place provides security, and gives them a way to feel comfortable and not threatened. Kittens must feel relaxed in your home.
  • Use the proper cage to confine your kittens. If they are extremely small, use nylon cages—not wire—so they can’t escape through bars. The cage should be large enough to hold the den, food and water dishes, a litter box, and soft, comfortable bedding. See 'Tools of the Trade' below.
  • Make sure that room is kitten-proofed, so if they get out of your hands, they will still be safe. You don’t want them to be able to crawl under doorways or furniture or into vents—anywhere that is difficult for you to reach, or is dangerous for them.

Socialization

Getting comfortable – Follow these tips to make kittens feel more at home and prepare them for socialization.

  • Give kittens an initial two-day adjustment period after trapping before you begin holding them.
  • Set the kittens’ crate up off floor so they feel more comfortable. Felines feel safer if they are higher and not at ground level.
  • Move slowly and speak softly around the kittens. If you wear shoes indoors, consider slippers or socks around the kittens. Don’t play loud music or musical instruments.
  • Don’t keep the kittens confined away from the household action. Leave a TV or radio on after the kittens have been in your home for a few days, so they become accustomed to human voices and sounds. If exposure to other pets is not an issue, set the whole crate in a busy living room with a TV playing.
  • For young kittens, a ticking clock wrapped in a towel sounds like a mother cat’s heartbeat and is very soothing.
  • Kittens will respond to positive experiences. Reward positive behaviors and prevent negative experiences like scolding or confrontations with other pets.
  • Gauge each kitten’s ability to learn and become accustomed to you. Evaluate each individually—don’t go by set rules.
  • Spitting, hissing, and hiding are all expressions of fear; be patient and do not mistake these signs for aggression.
  • If a litter of kittens are slow to socialize, consider separating them. Isolating the kittens forces them to rely on people. If you can’t, make sure you spend quality time alone with each one. Litters can be put back together after a short adjustment period.

Socializing with food – Food is the key to socialization. Providing the kitten with food creates an incentive for the kitten to interact with you and forms a positive association, ensuring that she connects you with the food she loves so much.

  • You may keep dry kitten food out all day. When you feed wet food, stay in the room while the kittens eat it, so they associate you with food and begin to trust you.
  • If the kittens are very timid, try to first give them food on a spoon through the cage.
  • Over time, gradually move the food plate closer to your body while you sit in the room, until the plate is in your lap and the kittens are comfortable crawling on you to get to it.
  • Pet and handle the kittens for the first time while they are eating, so they have an incentive to stay put. Start petting around the face, chin, and behind the ears and work up to petting all over.
  • Gradually work up to holding kittens, making sure to reward them with some canned cat food or chicken-flavored baby food on a spoon. Human baby food, especially chicken flavor, is a special incentive for kittens. (Make sure the baby food has no onion—it’s toxic to cats.)
  • Don’t offer food to kittens on your finger or allow kittens to play with your hand or bite or scratch you. A bite from even a young kitten can be painful and dangerous and it teaches the kittens that biting is acceptable behavior. This rule is especially important when raising single kittens without siblings.

Socializing with Touch and Play – All young kittens should be picked up often to be petted, brushed, and played with so they are used to this behavior when they grow up.

  • If you haven’t separated the kittens, take time to socialize each of them individually. Handling them away from the group can speed up the socialization process by making them more dependent on you.
  • Devote about two hours per day for successful socialization. You can do a few long sessions or several shorter sessions.
  • Get down to the kittens’ level and play with them; particularly kittens eight weeks and younger.
  • Hold the kittens as much as possible. Make sure they are close to your body so they feel your body warmth and heart beat. This is especially productive after they have eaten, so they associate you with the food and the cuddles.
  • Use toys to entice kittens to play at around three to four weeks.
  • If a kitten is particularly feisty, put her in a front carrying pack (see equipment list) or papoose her in a towel with only the head out and hold her while doing things around the house.
  • After kittens are comfortable enough with you to fall asleep on your lap or purr in your presence, they can move from the initial confinement space to a larger, kitten-proof room.

Introduce New Friends – Your goal is to socialize the kittens so that they are comfortable around all people and pets and will be happy in their new homes, so introduce them to new some faces!

  • As long as all are healthy, you can introduce kittens to an adult socialized cat. A neutered tom will likely play and groom the kittens, which helps the socialization process.
  • Introduce kittens to as many people as you can to adjust them to strangers and unexpected circumstances.
  • If there are other friendly animals in your household, exposing kittens to them will only help the kittens' socialization.

Precautions – Even a scratch from a kitten can hurt. Make sure you know how to properly handle feisty kittens!

  • Aggressive feral kittens can hurt you badly if you are not careful. Wear gloves or protective clothing if you feel it is needed.
  • Sometimes you have to scruff kittens by the back of their neck to gain control. Learn how to safely scruff a kitten as shown in the photo. Use your entire hand and gently but firmly grasp the fur on back of neck without pinching, pull the cat up, and immediately support her hind legs.

Keeping Kittens Safe

  • Do not use toxic cleaning products or leave them in the room with kittens, including Lysol®, and wet wipes.
  • For clean-ups, use diluted bleach solutions (one part bleach to 15 parts water) in small amounts.
  • If kittens are in your bathroom, pull the shower curtain up and out of the way, so they don’t climb it.
  • Take ALL knick-knacks out of the room (i.e., perfume bottles, soap bottles, jewelry, figurines, etc.)
  • Do not allow very young children to play with or help socialize the kittens. They are not old enough to understand and react to the temperament and behavior of feral kittens.
  • Don’t keep kittens in a room with a “La-Z-Boy®” (reclining) chair. The kittens can be injured or killed if they go inside the chair and accidentally get closed underneath.

Tools of the Trade (Equipment, etc.)

  • Cages
  • Gloves
  • Treats, like human baby food (without onion)
  • Bedding materials
  • Cat food
  • Dens or other safe nesting items
  • Nylon front pack - hands free vest carrier for socializing
  • Interactive toys, such as balls, rope toys, and crinkle toys
  • Radio (tuned to talk radio) and CD with common household noise (TV, dishwasher, vacuum cleaner, etc.)

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Adoption Issues

I took the girls to another adoption event on Sunday, and ended up in the same scenario I seem to always end up in... no one paid any attention to Ari (which she was fine with, she just fell asleep) and someone was interested in Lemur but didn't pass the application part of the adoption. The interested woman was actually really nice, and had about 75% of everything I wanted in a home for Lemur (I would have preferred someone a little younger... maybe a family, but she was otherwise great and had a 7 month old kitten already). I was all ready to hand her over until the completed application was handed back to me, and she told me that she did in fact plan on declawing Lemur. That's when I had to say no. The sad part is that I completely understand her reasons for doing so (she is older, and has a skin condition that makes it imperative that she isn't scratched), but I still couldn't do it. Lemur is too sweet and I love her too much to subject her to that kind of amputation, no matter the reason. But it did get me thinking about how little people actually know about declawing, so I figured I should look up some info and post it here. I tried to find the most neutral source of information (Web MD), although I will say for the record that I vehemently oppose declawing cats (unless the cat's life depends on it).

So here is the low down on declawing cats... hopefully everyone out there will realize how unnatural it is, and that 99.999% of the time it just should not be done.


Declawing Cats Q&A: Positives, Negatives, and Alternatives

WebMD veterinary experts answer common questions about declawing cats.
By Sandy Eckstein
WebMD Pet Health Feature

Declawing cats is a very emotionally charged and controversial topic in the cat world. So WebMD asked Atlanta veterinarian Drew Weigner, an American Board of Veterinary Practitioners certified specialist in feline medicine and a past president of the Academy of Feline Medicine, for more information on the topic.

Q: What is the actual procedure involved in declawing a cat?

A: There are several different techniques, but they all involve one thing. You have to remove the claw, and you have to remove the little piece of bone that the claw grows from. If you don’t, the claw will try to grow back.

The less you remove, the better, and that’s where the differences in techniques come in. The way cats are normally declawed, there’s an instrument with a sliding blade, almost like a guillotine, and it cuts a straight line through the joint between that little piece of bone and the next piece of bone, which is much bigger.

When you do that, right underneath that is the pad, and you actually cut that right in half, too. So it’s like cutting the tip of your finger off.

With cosmetic declawing, you use a tiny curved blade to go in and dissect out the claw and the tiny piece of bone. The pad is intact; all the soft tissue is there. So the cat is walking comfortably very quickly because its pads are fine. When the pads are cut in half, the cat can’t walk on them without discomfort. That’s what cats put their weight on. And they can’t walk on them comfortably for weeks. Most of the pain comes from the trauma to the soft tissue.

But cosmetic declawing is not an easy procedure to do: It’s time consuming, so not many veterinarians do it.

Q: Many people are opposed to declawing. Why?

A: Some people feel it’s unnatural to remove a cat’s claws, and it’s done for the owner’s benefit and not for the cat’s benefit. There are many other arguments you can make for this - the pain they go through, the complications after declawing. But I think it really boils down to, cats are born with claws and they should keep them.

Q: Are there good reasons to declaw a cat?

A: There are a couple of good reasons. Medically, sometimes you have to remove a claw if the claw is damaged beyond repair or if it has a tumor.

Sometimes it’s also trauma to the owners. There are people whose immune systems are suppressed or the elderly on blood thinners who can’t be exposed to the bacteria on a cat’s claws.

But the majority of declawings are due to social issues, where cats are being destructive and tearing up furniture.

Q: What are the positions of the American Veterinary Medical Association and the American Association of Feline Practitioners on declawing?

A: They both say about the same thing, which is while it’s not considered medically necessary for the cat, it can be considered appropriate for cats that otherwise would be given up or for whose owners are immunocompromised.

There are alternatives to declawing, and I think everybody, including veterinarians, look at declawing as a last resort. But if it keeps the owners from giving up their cats, euthanizing them, or making them outside cats, I think it’s a realistic option.

Q: Does declawing hurt the cat? How long does it take a cat to recover?

A: It depends on the procedure. Any surgery involves some degree of pain or discomfort. Pain management is an important part of any procedure.

That being the case, the recovery time is much faster for some techniques than others. Cosmetic declawings heal much faster, usually within a week. The guillotine method of declawing a cat, you’re talking two or three weeks or longer.

Q: Can declawing lead to any medical complications or problems?

A: Like any surgery, infection is a possibility, especially because this is not a sterile surgery. You can’t sterilize this area. And if it’s not performed properly, the claw can grow back, but it won’t grow back properly and that can cause abscesses.

Q: Will declawing change my cat’s personality?

A: They truly have looked at these issues and found nothing. You’ll hear stories that cats start biting more or develop litter box problems, but there’s no evidence of it even after numerous studies.

Q: Do declawed cats sometimes develop litter box problems?

A: I hear the stories just like everyone else. But every study they’ve done has shown there is no evidence of this, that there aren’t any changes in litter box habits after declawing.

Q: Can I allow a declawed cat to go outside?

A: No, it’s not appropriate for obvious reasons. Letting your cats outside after they’ve been declawed would be cruel because they can’t defend themselves properly. Therefore, owners have to be committed to keep the cat indoors for the rest of its life or to find a family that can do so.

Q: Isn’t it better to declaw a cat rather than get rid of it?

A: If that’s the only option, absolutely. If the cat is going to be given up, the lesser of two evils is declawing the cat. There’s no two ways about it. And, if you’re going to start letting your cat outside because it’s a destructive cat, you’re probably better off declawing it and keeping it inside because it will live considerably longer being an inside declawed cat than an outside, undeclawed cat.

But the majority of declawings are due to social issues, where cats are being destructive and tearing up furniture.

_______________________________________

And just because I'm so opposed to declawing, here is an article that's more in line with my thinking from the Humane Society:

Declawing Cats: Far Worse Than a Manicure

The Humane Society of the United States

Declawing is a topic that arouses strong feelings. Some people believe it's cruel and unnecessary, while others think it has its place.

Why people declaw cats

People often mistakenly believe that declawing their cats is a harmless "quick fix" for unwanted scratching. They don't realize that declawing can make a cat less likely to use the litter box or more likely to bite.

People who are worried about being scratched, especially those with immunodeficiencies or bleeding disorders, may be told incorrectly that their health will be protected by declawing their cats. However, declawing is not recommended by infectious disease specialists. The risk from scratches for these people is less than those from bites, cat litter, or fleas carried by their cats.

Cats are usually about 8 weeks old when they begin scratching. It's the ideal time to train kittens to use a scratching post and allow nail trims. Pet caregivers should not consider declawing a routine prevention for unwanted scratching. Declawing can actually lead to an entirely different set of behavior problems that may be worse than shredding the couch.

What is declawing?

Too often, people think that declawing is a simple surgery that removes a cat's nails—the equivalent of having your fingernails trimmed. Sadly, this is far from the truth.

Declawing traditionally involves the amputation of the last bone of each toe. If performed on a human being, it would be like cutting off each finger at the last knuckle.

How is a cat declawed?

The standard method of declawing is amputating with a scalpel or guillotine clipper. The wounds are closed with stitches or surgical glue, and the feet are bandaged.

Another method is laser surgery, in which a small, intense beam of light cuts through tissue by heating and vaporizing it. However, it's still the amputation of the last toe bone of the cat and carries with it the same long-term risks of lameness and behavioral problems as does declawing with scalpels or clippers.

A third procedure is the tendonectomy, in which the tendon that controls the claw in each toe is severed. The cat keeps his claws, but can't control them or extend them to scratch. This procedure is associated with a high incidence of abnormally thick claw growth. Therefore, more frequent and challenging nail trims are required to prevent the cat's claws from snagging on people, carpet, furniture, and drapes, or growing into the pads.

Because of its complications, tendonectomy may lead to declawing anyway. Although tendonectomy is not actually amputation, a 1998 study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association found the incidence of bleeding, lameness, and infection was similar for tendonectomy and declawing.

After effects

Medical drawbacks to declawing include pain, infection and tissue necrosis (tissue death), lameness, and back pain. Removing claws changes the way a cat's foot meets the ground and can cause pain similar to wearing an uncomfortable pair of shoes. There can also be a regrowth of improperly removed claws, nerve damage, and bone spurs.

For several days after surgery, shredded newspaper is typically used in the litter box to prevent litter from irritating declawed feet. This unfamiliar litter substitute, accompanied by pain when scratching in the box, may lead cats to stop using the litter box. Some cats may become biters because they no longer have their claws for defense.

What you can do

Scratching is normal cat behavior. It isn't done to destroy a favorite chair or to get even. Cats scratch to remove the dead husks from their claws, mark territory and stretch their muscles. The Humane Society of the United States opposes declawing except for the rare cases when it is necessary for medical purposes, such as the removal of cancerous nail bed tumors.

Many countries feel so strongly about the issue that they have banned the procedure. But you don't have to let your cat destroy your house. Here's what you can do:

  • Keep his claws trimmed to minimize damage to household items.
  • Provide several stable scratching posts and boards around your home. Offer different materials like carpet, sisal, wood, and cardboard, as well as different styles (vertical and horizontal). Use toys and catnip to entice your cat to use the posts and boards.
  • Ask your veterinarian about soft plastic caps (such as Soft Paws) that are glued to the cat's nails. They need to be replaced about every six weeks.
  • Use a special tape (such as Sticky Paws) on furniture to deter your cat from unwanted scratching.

Unnecessary procedures

Declawing and tendonectomies should be reserved only for those rare cases in which a cat has a medical problem that would warrant such surgery, such as the need to remove cancerous nail bed tumors. Declawing does not guarantee that a cat will not be taken to a shelter if other problem behaviors occur, such as biting or not using the litter box.

Declawing is an unnecessary surgery which provides no medical benefit to the cat. Educated pet parents can easily train their cats to use their claws in a manner that allows everyone in the household to live together happily.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Cats and Dogs

Who cares about an 80 pound black lab?? Not my cats. And particularly not Emily. She'll go right up to Sasha and just sit in front of her and stare her down. And James likes to walk past and bat at Sasha's tail. I think they realize she's just too big to run as fast as they can:)

Feeding Frenzy

Yeap, this is what feeding 8 cats looks like. It's a good thing they're all so cute!!

From left to right we have:

James, Emily, Zadie, Lemur, Ari, Madeline, Malcolm and Emma.

James is a big boy now

James went to the vet this morning for his last round of kitten shots, which officially makes him a big boy now!! Best of all he got a clean bill of health, which makes me incredibly happy!! Love this little guy to pieces:)

WE DID IT!!!!!!!


We just got the official word from Pepsi that we snuck in under the wire and came out at number 15!!! That means we now have $25,000 to help save adoptable kittens from high kill shelters and transport them to the North East to be adopted!!! Hooray for everyone who helped, and hooray for the kittens!!!!:) This makes all those last minute bottles of Pepsi I bought last night but won't drink totally worth it!!!!!!!!
Thank you to everyone out there who helped us win this amazing prize!!!:)

And I just want to say that it's things like this that make working in animal rescue worth it. There are too many cases that leave you depressed and despondent, but just one little thing can raise your spirits again and remind you why you do what you do in the first place. And this is no little thing... this is HUGE!!!! I also want to express my heartfelt gratitude and appreciation for Pepsi, and the amazing work they're doing to help communities help themselves!!!! If only there were more corporations that had this kind of generosity!!!!!!

The Next Mission

The Pepsi Refresh voting may officially be over (we find out this afternoon if we held the 15th place position for funding... fingers and paws crossed!!), but that doesn't mean we still don't need your help. There is a wonderful organization that rescues the sick and injured cats that won't otherwise be adopted (think FIV, Leukemia, deformations, etc), and thanks to a generous pledge they will receive $1 for every person who "likes" their page on Facebook. Help these amazing people care for some pretty special kitties by liking their page today!!!
So don't forget to visit Shadow Cats Rescue and click like on their page. For each new like they get, they will receive a $1 donation to help provide hospice care for 93 ill and injured cats at their sanctuary and to fund their TNR work. Plus they are great anipals! Just two clicks = $1.00 Can't be any easier than that to help cats in need.

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/pages/Shadow-Cats-Rescue/157788162498